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WITTENBERG, GERMANY — It’s 8 a.m. in rural east Germany, and Gunter, a hulking tree trunk of a man, is swinging a hammer over his head, pounding together the steel frame of a 90-foot-tall lookout ...

Wittenberg feels like a one-street town: a long, straight thoroughfare that takes you through the early history of the Reformation as you walk (or better, stroll – this is a corner of the old East ...